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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.